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Peak Mountain 3

The Ninth Wave

FA Michael hartrich, Jeff Phesant and Bill Findeson 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is perhaps the most obvious route on the Ninth Wave formation on the lower right side of the whitehorse slabs... A very slippery friction route which is convenient to top rope and commiting to lead...

Pitch 1: (5.10a R) From the anchor on the left side below the "wave" head straight up the ridge above (there seems to be some different opinions of where the route goes depending on guidebook choice) Clip a bolt 10 feet up from the anchor and stick your neck out as you run it out to the anchor above the steep swell...

Most people rap from here...

Pitches 4-5: (5.3-5.6) Continue up above the anchor for 4 more pitches of more moderate climbing if your heart desires...However... I think most people would just pat themselves on the back and call it a day after this lead...

Location

Just left of pitch 2 of Beginners route there is a steep swell that hosts a few very commiting routes all leaving from the same start anchor and finishing on the same anchor as well... This is the one in the middle...

To get to the anchor solo up the moderate friction right of slabbs direct to the swell and clip in...

All the routes are easy to top rope from the anchor...

Protection

1 bolt and bolted anchors...

Easy to top rope from the anchor...