- Edit (TBD)
Description
A two pitch variation to The Cormier-Magness.
Climb CM's first five pitches. After the Northwest Passage, walk climber's right 20' and reset the belay in a low horizontal.
Pitch 1, Gritty McDuff, 5.7 Step up and right from the belay and follow a slab straight up passing two bolts before joining the Low Beer Light pitch (approx 50'). The climbing eases as you approach the no-fall zone. A little spicy toward the top of the slab on mellow terrain. 180'
Pitch 2, The Chaser, 5.10 From Low Beer Light's tree, step down a few feet and right. Straight up again over an obvious bulge. Pass two bolts before joining the Platinum Slab (approx 30'). A smidge stiffer than Interloper's first pitch. 190'
Rock quality on both pitches is superb as is the climbing. I didn't scrub at all; traffic will clean things up. If the variations were longer and more independent, the star quality would be higher.
As per usual: free and on lead.
A long draw on the first bolt of each pitch should help with drag.
Protection
draws and a .4/.5 for a horizontal entering the first pitch (extend with 4' sling)
Routes in 7. The Slabs
- 33The Cormier-Magness Indirect5.10Trad