Creepy Cowboy

This route can be broken up into two pitches (recommended) or one long one with 70m rope. A double set of Camalots (or their equivalent) ranging from .3 - #2 and a set of tri-cams is helpful for the start of the second pitch!Pitch 1: (110')  Climb the slab trending a bit right on the blunt arete up to the first set of trees with a black sling and rap ring. Gear is found on the right side of the arete ranging from very small cams to #2. A slight runout in the middle of the pitch will hold your attention until you find gear (0.3 , on right) roughly 15-20' below the first belay.Pitch 2 (120')Continue straight up the face (run out) to the obvious crack on the left of the steep slab. The crack accepts gear from .75-#2. At the top of the crack continue up the steep face (crux) to a bolt below the overlap. Continue up and left to the tree belay at the top of Beginner's Right. Optional gear (#1) can be found in the flaring water groove to the left between your last piece in the crack and the bolt if you can find it.Descent- Rap twice with a single 70M rope or once with two 70M ropes. If you only have a single 60m, there’s a rap station on a tree about 20 ft above the normal rap/ belay tree on  reedy Cowboy. *Note: the FA was climbed on gear but the micro cam that was placed under the shallow overlap popped when the leader stepped above it leaving his last piece 20' below in the crack and another 40' of unprotected climbing to the anchor. It was decided that one bolt protecting the crux and eventual runout to the anchor was necessary and was placed on the second ascent.

The route is located on the far right of the slabs approximately 30' to the right of "Beginner's Easy Variation" at a silver birch tree at the base of a clean narrow slab.

small cams (purple master cam) to .5, and a double set of cams from .75 to #2. A set of tri-cams are useful when leaving the belay for the start of the second pitch![Note-if you have 3 #1’s ( Red Camelot-sized) you’ll be able to use them on P2, although you can squeeze #2’s into the crack. A Tricameral or 0.75 ( green) fits a slot about 8-10 ft into P2.  R Hall ]