The Flake

Another route hidden in plain sight. If you’ve already done Sea Of Holes and wanna try something new, or you’re just looking to avoid the slabs crowds, this route is for you. Make sure you have 2 ropes if you plan to rap.Pitch 1 & 2:Follow the first 2 pitches of Sea Of Holes. See the description of that route for more details, but essentially you climb easy slabs with little pro, utilizing 2 bolted anchors for belays. Pitch 3:From the uncomfortable bolted belay stance, pad up the 5.5 slab to the base of the big headwall, but instead of trending left to Sea Of Holes, trend right to a block on the left side of the steep buttress. Belay on gear. 5.3 100’Pitch 4:Move into the block, then make a few moves to surmount a steep bulge and gain the flake. Pass a few pins, then layback up the flake until it ends. Here, you’ll need to make a couple committing 5.7 slab moves over a final bulge. Belay at the anchor of the Stadtmüller-Griffin below the overhang. 5.7 70’Descent:Either continue up the Stadtmüller-Griffin 5.6, or rap from this anchor. 3 double rope rappels with 70m ropes should get you down.

Starts mid cliff on the headwall to the right of Sea Of Holes pitch 3.

Standard Whitehorse rack, singles to #2 and a variety of tricams.