- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch #1 (105')
:
Climb up the face, just left of a right facing corner, passing (3) bolts along the way. It's possible to plug gear in before reaching the top of a flake (yep, THE "shaky flake"). From here, move out right then up. This section is a bit runout, starting with some solid 5.9 moves before reaching a dike with a bolt. Pass the bolt and head to a bolted belay
Pitch #2 (70')
:
Step off the dike and continue up on good dishes and edges (5.8), passing (2) bolts before reaching the last bolted anchor. Rap the route.
Optional: To add to the "fun" factor, one can instead rap from the final anchor and down to the anchors of 'Face Of A Blue Eyed Dog' (.12a) and give that route a top rope burn. Or if you're mega solid at technical edging and have nerves of steel, get on the sharp end and give it a go from the bottom!
Location
Use the same approach as 'Smiling Faces' by going up a ramp and into a corner (3rd class). The "cramped" belay is at the base of a right facing corner. Look for bolts just left of the right facing corner on the face above. One can either use one 70 meter rope and break the route into 2 pitches OR carry two rope and do it as one big pitch.
Protection
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(2) 60 meter ropes OR (1) 70 meter rope and rap in 2 pitches
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(7) quick draws
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Pro to 2"
Routes in Penstemon Dome (West Face)
- 10Shake The Flake5.9Alpine · Trad