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Peak Mountain 3

No Zukes

FA McCabe, Swanson, 8/82
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: 3 possibilities. a) Direct start up easy crack to ledge below overhanging offwidth. Thrash up awkward offwidth or hump the nose. 5.10b. b) Direct start up same easy crack to ledge then traverse left at ledge and back around to crack to bolted anchors. 5.7. c) Use the 1st pitch of Captain America, work right at small ledge to same bolted anchors as above, above offwidth/nose. Recommended, 5.8, ~ 100'

Pitch 2: Work 5.7 left facing dihedral system with some off width until you can step right on to face and up to bolted anchors 170'

Pitch 3: Work up face somewhat left past 2 bolts along line of least resistance, over steepening wall. Above 2nd bolt work up and right to crack in left facing corner. Crack is good (small-medium pro) but is dirty. Above crack/corner is a stance followed by another original bolt. From bolt work up face and traverse right when small right angling dike appears, head for 2 bolt anchor not far right. Almost 60m. A few more feet right is Rope a Dope anchors for rappel (2 ropes). Spooky, run out. Cruxes are 5.9, but take some work to figure out, otherwise 5.10a. Actual bolts (1/4") but hangers are what scared me.

Location

Next corner system right of Capatain America, right of Song of the Earth.

Rappel Rope a Dope (2 60m ropes) to other obvious anchors. 4 rappels

Protection

All 3 belays have bolted anchors. Small (tcu's)to medium cams. Blue cam, probably want 2 for offwidth.