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Peak Mountain 3

Sunday Hoe-down

FA John Gonzales and Cliff Delker, 7-89
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Starts on the south west base of Penstemon dome (there is a small block to a left facing corner/ramp). 1st pitch is 5.5-5.6. Build a belay on a ledge where there are two options, a right facing corner or a left facing corner. The right facing corner is wider - liebacking works well. If you go up the left side (the right facing corner), head up pretty much directly up toward a low-angle roof. First two pitches might have some vegetation and moss but no big deal. You can build a belay below the roof, or you can keep going. Go over the roof and head left to a two bolt belay. You can rap from here or you can do the final pitch. This is the crux a few bold protected slab moves to a low angle crack and you are on the top of the dome.

Location

Drive to Courtright Reservoir and keep right on the road, go over the dam, pass the geological lookout, and park at the trailhead. Head northeast, down into the gully, over a small creek and up the hill through some manzanita, pine trees and aspens to the base of Penstemon dome. There is a faint trail and some blocky boulders on the way to the base. The start of this climb is on the south-west side.

Protection

standard rack (bring larger cams for wide option), sticky rubber shoes a good idea for the slab section