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Peak Mountain 3

Crooked Neck

FA Stephen McCabe, Gerri Dayharsh
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"Beginning at the 'Song of the Earth' initial crack/corner, climb a left trending crack system. Build a belay at a confluence of cracks and ledges. Next, proceed up and left to a small pine tree in a crack and belay. Follow discontinuous right facing flakes to easier ground and a bolted belay above."

You can approach the SOTE initial crack corner from the 5.9 OW or the 5.5 ramp to the right. Both require a short section of OW.

4 pitches noted as part of this route doesn't include the approach pitch to the SOTE initial anchor.

Location

Beginning at the 'Song of the Earth' initial crack/corner. This route crosses many other routes as it trends leftward for two pitches before heading directly up. Can finish with a top out and walk down to the climbers left.

Protection

Gear to 2". #3 and/or #4 Cams are good for the approach pitch to the SOTE P1 anchors. Build an anchor after first leftward traverse pitch above the 'Walk the Plank Tree' in a series of cracks and hollow flakes. Build P2 anchor in a right facing flake crack above a small pine. Short P3 to a bolted anchor. P4 has a bolted anchor with rappel gear. There is an anchor that may belong to 'Cool as a Cuke' that can be clipped in the middle of a P2 traverse, and there is a fixed pin on the 4th pitch. Rappel will require 2 ropes but there are numerous anchors that don't appear in the guidebook that could probably make for a single rope rappel. Wouldn't want to be wrong about that though, bring 2.