- Edit (TBD)
Description
An alternate and more difficult approach to "Between the Thighs". Can be aborted after the first pitch to join "West Face Direct" on its second pitch (5.6 Off-Width and traverse).
Pitch 1
:
Starts off of the same belay anchors as "West Face Direct", at the far climbers right of Zocalo Ledge. Instead of West Face Direct, take the diagonal finger crack up and right until you top out on a ledge. The crux is very balancy, with the finger crack being flared and quite dirty. My partner called it "awkward", and I guess she is right, but I still thought it was fun. Bolted anchors await you.
I originally voted this pitch as 5.9+ as that was the grade found on Daniel's topo at
sekiclimbing.com
. After leading it twice, I don't feel ashamed in calling this thing solid 5.10. Grades are subjective, so be careful on this climb and feel free to vote differently than I did.
Pitch 2:
Move the belay approximately 30 feet to climbers right along the ledge and find the second flake system (not the thin flake you see first). Climb this until it peters out to unprotected knob climbing which takes you to the next ledge up. Although the climbing looks easy, we rejoined WFD, so I can't speak to the grade on the second pitch.
Protection
Doubles of finger sizes to stitch it up. BD #1 and #2 were helpful as well.
Routes in West Face
- 7Sunlight and Shadow5.10Trad