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Peak Mountain 3

Gray Squirrel

FA Jeff Jackson, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun chimney climbing that, at times, climbs like a slab within a chimney.

Location

Climb the first two pitches of

Holy Grail

and look for the large, prominent chimney to your right. When exiting Holy Grail, there’s a short slab traverse to an alcove w/ a ledge, where you belay and start the climb.

To reach

Holy Grail:

  1. Do the old scramble down the NW shoulder and get on the first pitch of The Link then traverse the huge ledge towards Zocalo (one rope).

  2. Rap Offramp to Zocalo w/ two ropes on the 3rd rap.

Protection

Singles 0.3” to 2”

Doubles 3” to 5” or 6”

Set of nuts.

The bottom half of the climb protects well, the second half not so much.