West Face Direct

Sustained at a moderate grade, exposed right from the start, this climb has good variety & good belay ledges. Climbing the first three pitches of this is the best way to link up with Between the Thighs (5.8, 2P). A good moderate link up, West Face Direct>Between the Thighs would be 5P’s and have a lot of 5.7,8,9 climbing but no 5.10. I haven’t done the top pitch or two West Face direct though it looks like some nice 5.10 steep crack/flake climbing, though it also looks to be filled w/ lichen.

P1: 5.9 100’ gets hard and exposed right off the ground. A finger crack (0.3”) provides some pro, then a hard, reachy traverse right to a corner that has easier climbing and good pro. Could also stay straight up on Sunlight & Shadow (5.9+) which is a hard, flaring finger crack. This pitch ends at bolts on Raven Ledge.

*move belay 80’ right.

P2: 5.8 130’ starts in a clean wide crack (5”,4”) with knobs for feet, to a horizontal crack, a mantel move up to a bolt, trend right to a small crack, then build belay up on a shallow ledge at a steep wall. ***Moving right 80’ of 5.6 would link up with the 5.10 crack/corner pitches of Levitys End.

P3: 5.7 130’ a left traverse with a shallow ledge, big dirty blocks, and some crack for pro. Sew it up here for your follower with finger, hand size cams & long slings. Thrash through the bushes at the end and head to Tier of Vision Ledge to build an anchor at the base of a short finger crack.

*From here trend left and climb the steep crack/ flake to finish on West Face Direct or straight up the finger crack to the roof on Between the Thighs.

*From

the Patio, do a sketchy 5th class scramble left, or climb Enigma, Digging in the Dirt, or Pennies on the Patio.

Starts at far right side of Zocalo Ledge at the anchor bolts way out on the edge. You’ll have to scramble down (4th,5th) the NW shoulder and climb The Link or do the raps down Offramp, prob best.

Doubles 0.3”-2”. Single 0.2” & 3” to 5”. Nuts, 8-10 alpine draws. 60m or 70m rope.

*need two ropes to rap Offramp, unfortunately.