- Edit (TBD)
Description
A fun and well protected moderate with a short approach. Can be linked with other easy climbs and requires no raps to approach. Full value 5.6. A couple of very fun cracks!
Pitch 1:
Climb up the slab and blindly reach around into the right facing corner. Follow the corner up to a thin ledge that traverses right to Zocalo, belay at this ledge.
From here, you can 3rd class to the right to get to Zocalo, or move the belay left 100 feet or so.
Stepping around the corner above the slab is the crux. Good pro can be had by starting on Land of Goshen and using long slings.
Pitch 2:
Climb up the easy low angle crack until you reach a bulge/mini roof on your right. Traverse right and surmount the bulge. Head up easy slabs and ledges towards a large left facing corner. Several places to belay, none are great.
Pitch 3:
Jam your way up the fun left facing corner and belay on the large ledge with the tree.
There is a 2 bolt belay on the far right end of this ledge if you want to finish on Holy Grail. (Super fun 5.7 dihedral pitch)
You can link pitches 2-3 with a 70m rope and ~15 feet of very easy simul climbing.
Pitch 4:
Follow the easy ramps up until you feel like walking or run out of rope, and build.
Limpingcrab has a great
topo
for Moro.
Location
Try to follow the trail down from the old bathrooms. You will likely have to bushwhack. Traverse out to a large sloping ledge on the big ramp, or pass the ramp on skier’s right and pick up the ledge below it. The Link is at the upper reaches of this ledge on climber’s right. Look for the obvious big roof with cracks (Land of Goshen). The Link starts 10 feet to the right.
Be cautious above the slabs. There’s a lot of forest debris everywhere.
Protection
Doubles to 3. A single 4 is useful, but not needed
Routes in West Face
- 2The Link5.6Trad