- Edit (TBD)
Description
A wild and exposed journey up the obvious seam/crack system. While there are hollow spots, the rock is generally much better than it looks from below.
Begin as for Flippin' the Bird, breaking right into the seam at 20ft. Half way up the seam, move right over two foot ledges. Load up on small gear under the roof (fixed white tricam) then make a wild and committing move around the corner and into the wide, flaring feature. Continue up the crack with good exposure and good feet, making a bouldery move over the "finger" at it's end (crux) to a small alcove. Move straight up to the bolted belay on Flippin' the Bird. Double ropes helpful. 35m.
Location
Around the corner from Family Picnic, 20 feet right of Fuck Rumney.
Protection
Rack many long slings, including two 4ft. slings for under the roof, 0.2-#4 bd (doubles .4-.75), a set of stoppers, and tricams
Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes
- 10Compound Fracture5.10aTrad