Flippin the bird

The obvious chimney just right of Fuck Rumney, seriously classic pitch that reminded me of some of the climbing at Pokomoonshine.

P1: Gain the chimney by climbing the perpetually wet corner on the right, wet but positive holds with a couple good jams and gear along the way. Dry your shoes off at the small ledge right below the chimney proper and then worm your way up the bottom groove. Move out right as the chimney widens to a powerful crux up to gain the top of the flake then continue trending right until you gain the upper right-facing corner. Cruise through this sweet 5.8 corner to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge next to a warped tree.

P2: Traverse right from the belay moving slightly higher to a larger ledge. Traverse to the far right side of this ledge and move up on good holds to a nice featured slab. Run it out up the featured slab keeping an eye out for a few gear placements, then pull a steep face on great holds to gain the top. You can rap from trees to various mid-anchors.

The obvious chimney just right of Fuck Rumney.

Gear to 4" will work though you can get a couple 6" and 5" pieces in the upper corner, double rack of larger sizes is definitely helpful on first pitch especially 4"