Fuck Rumney

A stellar pitch with meaty business. New beta may have softened the grade.

After clipping the first bolt work up unique schist scoops, pinches, and crimps past small gear until you reach a stance at the third bolt. Chalk up a half dozen times and catch your breath. From here it's obvious what you're shooting for but can you figure out how to get there? Get through the business and trend right to a crack with gear and secure holds. Continue around the left of a bulge to a two-bolt anchor. But wait, there's more! There is now an additional 20 ft. of climbing with an awesome one-move crux. Clip the anchors with a double length sling and trend up and left until you can clip the high bolt. Pull through and mantle to a second anchor shared with Maybe God's a Trad Climber.

If rappelling from the second anchor you NEED a 60 meter rope. Nothing shorter will reach.

A 60 meter rappel from the top anchors.

30 feet to the right of Father's Day on the huge obvious arête. Look for a bolt 20 feet up.

A light rack and 4 quickdraws. A #3 is nice if shooting for the second anchor. Cruxes are well protected but it's a tricky onsight.