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Peak Mountain 3

Maybe God's a Trad Climber

FA Kristofer Fiore, Connor Myers, (May 23rd, 2016)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Another climb that will deserve more stars once cleaned. A great route to pair with Family Picnic.

P1. Begin up the face with difficulty until reaching easier terrain above. Continue up a gear protected bulge, followed by a bolt protected bulge and easier dirty terrain and a gear belay. (5.8)

P2. Step right from the belay and continue up easy blocky climbing aiming for the obvious fist crack above you. Use the fist crack to reach good holds before traversing right under the small roof to a two-bolt belay. A steep but surprisingly mellow ending! (5.7)

I had my drill stolen out of my car recently and upon wondering out loud what I could possibly have done to deserve such a thing, the name of this climb was Connor's answer.

Location

Begin at an obvious triangle of missing rock with a glue-in bolt above it about 20 feet right of Family Picnic.

Protection

Standard rack. Gear belay at the top of Pitch 1 if you have it or use the mid-anchor for Family Picnic. Bolts at the top of pitch 2.

A 60 meter rope is required to rappel from the anchors to the bottom of Fuck Rumney and it's a real stretch so make sure your rope is a true 60. Alternatively, you can rappel to the mid-anchors of Family Picnic to descend in two raps.