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Description
Might be the best moderate on the Belly. Great pro, perfect cracks from fingers to off-fist and big exposure make this a classic line.
P1) 65' Look for a large detached blocky flake sitting 15' from the ground on a sloping ledge. Climb the left facing corner passing above the flake, to a right traverse under a knobby bulge, up a short crack to a very large comfortable ledge where you will find anchors on the far left.
P2) 60' Wonderful pitch gets right to it. Leave the ledge on the far left which starts out thin hands and quickly gets off fist. Gear anchor.
P3) A short thin finger crack leads up and to the right to the bolted belay on a huge ledge.
P4) The Dream pitch. Go straight up the deceivingly steep hand to off fist crack to bolted anchors. Awesome!
Location
Stand back and look for the detached block/flake. Starts left and passes the block. A 70m rope just makes the rap from P3 to P1.
Protection
Double rack .3 to 3", 1-4". Offset nuts work well. Slings a must.
Routes in Left of the Regular Route
- 8Tangerine Dream5.10-Alpine · Trad