The Regular Route

A 3 (or 4) pitch route more popular for it's ease of 'getting to the top' than for it's pure aesthetics, fun, with lots of variations and possibilities. Originally believed to be the first line on the Belly (1984); Tangerine Dream' squeezed it out by 4 years (1980)

Pitch 1: Starts just left of the toe, up an easy (5.6R) steep knobby face with little pro. 65' to the left traverse onto 'First Terrace'. Walk to the back corner of the terrace, bolted belay. 90'

Pitch 2: Climb the corner above the belay. The original line (5.8) is the leftmost crack in the corner,, there are easier variation just to the right of this. Ends on the 'Second Terrace'. 90'

Pitch 3: Head into the left corner, up a small ledge/ramp. There are many choices of cracks to choose from, the original Regular Route used the left hand crack to start, then switched into the OW/chimney to finish at the bolted belay.

Descent for 3rd Pitch: Recommended. Rap from belay to top of Second Terrace. Downclimb on belay to anchors above "Clast Von Bulow". Difficult to find if not familiar with the route.

Optional 4th pitch: NOT RECOMMENDED: Continue up through the choss, loose rock and ledges (easy 5th) to the top. From the top of the 4th pitch the descent is a short rap (you will need slings or to leave gear behind) into the scree behind the crag to the northwest. Walk/slide down dirty, loose, lousy scree to the base. Not worth it.

The climb starts just to the left of the lowest point of the crag, the toe. UP and to the left approximately 65' is the 'First Terrace'.

Standard rack to 5" depending on the variation. Doubles in fingers and hands for some. Tricams work well on pockets throughout the park. Here as well.