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Peak Mountain 3

Smeagol's Way

FA Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Twenty feet right of

Miner's Delight

is a striking corner/seam/arete system that runs up through a short, steep head-wall just before the anchors. Stretch for the second clip and make a dynamic move past it. The crux is getting out of the corner system and on to the arete. Feet are pretty thin for 50 feet, and Smeagol can be spooky in a couple of places. The arete may have two solutions that tick in at very different grades (11c is the easy way). Solid rock, good continuity, and only half a rope long. FFA: Mark Tarrant

Protection

A dozen draws, a 60 meter rope, and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.