Waimea

Yet another 3 pitch sport route on Ra. A long way from Oahu, this Waimea starts just right of Moving Zen. It's the 5th bolted line coming up the hill. The first pitch is the money pitch. The upper two pitches are kind of out of character in difficulty but make for a nice way to top out. The opening pitch is deceptive in two ways: First, the stone up high looks a little suspect, but it's not. The rock is actually excellent the whole way. Also, the pitch looks maybe vertical. It's not--you'll see.

Pitch 1: 5.12c, 14 bolts + 3 bolt anchor, 110'. Swim up a clean granite face with small dihedrals and aretes up to a break below a pegmatite band. Cross the band (.10) and enter into a big, sweeping wave. The crux (.12b/c) comes at bolt 10, followed by several radical moves through pretty steep terrain. You'll get a rest before exiting the wave, then ride it out to the anchor. The crux is height-dependent. 6'0" barely gets you through at middle 5.12. It's sure to feel easier if you're taller, and probably much harder if you're shorter.

P2: 5.10a, 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 70'. Head straight up the face to a fun headwall on solid stone. A short slab leads to the anchor on a large ledge.

P3: 5.9, 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 80'. A decent pitch on good rock climbs through corners and bulges. Some lichen detracts just a bit from the nice position. Belay from 2 bolts and then skip up to the top.

Descent: Walk down the ramp to the north.

Taken by itself, the 1st pitch is at least 3 stars. We're contemplating lowering the anchor so it can be done as a single pitch with a 60m rope. As is, you'll need a 70m or two ropes to lower or rap. Also, it's not really possible to dog through the crux, and it's almost impossible for the person following to aid through it. So, if you're unsure, leave a couple long cheater slings on bolt #11 so the second can get up it.

15 draws + anchors. A 70m rope is required to get off the 1st pitch.