Higher Calling

Higher Calling is a 300', 3 pitch sport route that starts in an arching, left-facing dihedral about 60' up and left of

EOA

. At present, it is the fourth bolted route you'll encounter coming up the boulderfield. A relatively easy first pitch is followed by two fairly long, outlandish pitches on great stone. It's possible to rap/retreat from each pitch. I think the endurance demands take the overall onsight rating up a notch.

Pitch 1: 5.10b, 70', 8 bolts + anchor. Stem into the big dihedral, arcing up and left to an interesting crux at 50'. Belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.11d, 120', 15 bolts + anchor. Hang on for a wild, unrelenting ride up the overhanging dihedral for 60' (.11c/d--technical crux at the second bolt), and then work through the second crux on an exposed and intimidating chocolate-colored bulge (.11c/d) at 70'. More steep rock leads to a lowering anchor at 95' (NOT the belay). Climb 20' past this anchor to a comfy, flat ledge and belay.

Pitch 3: 5.11c, 95', 13 bolts + anchor. Another steep, exposed and exciting face finishes at a good ledge about 30' below the actual top of the cliff. After bolt 2, balance right around the arete, staying low at first, and then up to bolts 3 and 4 (first crux). There are two technical cruxes (.11a/b), but the real crux is handling the relentless 5.10. Think you can't fall off 5.10? Don't be surprised if you melt off some pretty good holds near the end of the pitch. It's best to belay below the summit in order to see your partner and avoid some rubble at the top.

Pitch 4: Jaunt 25' to the top (5.4, 1 bolt) and find the 2-bolt anchor for

EOA

about 10' back.

Descent: Walk down the ramp to the north.

With plenty of very good alpine rock, airy positions and fierce continuity, Higher Calling is on a par with 4-star routes just about anywhere.

16 draws + anchors, 60m rope.