- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route now goes all the way to the top in four pitches. It's the second bolted route coming up the boulder field. Between WOW and EOA is an obvious right-facing dihedral starting about 30' off the talus. The route begins on a slab 25' down from EOA, just left of an overhang close to the ground. The line is independent except for the last 50' where it joins WOW on the amazing arete.
Pitch 1: 5.11d, 13 bolts, 105', 3-bolt anchor. Climb the slab to the dihedral and then move on to a clean vertical wall. The last move in the dihedral is hard (.11), followed by a sit-down rest and then the edging crux on the wall above at bolt 10 (.11d straight up or .11c moving right). There is now a lowering anchor at the end of the pitch (90' to the ground), or move up to the ledge to belay.
Pitch 2: 5.10a, 5 bolts, 60', 2-bolt anchor. Mantle directly above the belay and then move left to a corner. Go up the corner for 20' and move left (crux) then up 20' to the anchor. (Midway up this pitch it is possible to traverse right, 5.7, linking to the big plate on WOW).
Pitch 3: 5.12a, 10 bolts, 80', 3-bolt anchor. Climb the steep face to the first crux (.12a lite) through the X on a steep prow, ending at a huge, incut jug. Move up the corner for 40' to the second crux through the last two clips. Rest up before the end to improve your chances with the slick, "no way", full-on .12a moves to the anchor.
Pitch 4: 5.11a, 13 bolts, 100', 2-bolt anchor. The final pitch is very fun with great position. Move left off the belay then up a steep face to a ledge. Continue with more steep face climbing to another big ledge where it joins WOW below the exposed arete. Climbing off each of the big ledges delivers the two cruxes.
Apart from the second pitch, this route rates 3+ stars. All the other pitches have engaging movement and are on good stone.
Descent: Walk down the descent ramp to the north.
Protection
About 15 draws plus anchors after each pitch. 60m rope.
Routes in Ra
- 11Eternal Sunshine5.12aSport