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MapDescription
The eye-catching overhanging overlap "arch" lowest on the dome. Start up a moderate corner that arcs left. There is adequate gear, but it is often small and tricky to see the placements. The 1st ascent broke it into 2 pitches at the obvious ledge at 130 ft, as to obtain more TCU's!! Save a large finger sized cam to protect the exit over the lip 190 ft from the start.
Location
The lowest "arch" on the dome. A single 60m rope in two rappels down Dreams of Wild Corgis will get you down.
Protection
As many #1 blue TCU's as you can obtain!....half a dozen to a dozen should be enough! Small nuts/rps. Nuts and cams to 2.5 inches. Save a .5-.75 inch cam for the end. Bolt/chain anchor on the ledge over the roof lip. Rappel Dreams of Wild Corgis.
Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
- 5Arch Enemy5.10+Alpine · Trad