- Edit (TBD)
Description
A Fred Beckey inspired climb! (He was asking Kale to go climb in the rockies with him. Instead Kale chose to go climbing at the arches with a couple of lovely ladies. Fred phrased this action as Kale going climbing with his "harem"!!) Pitch 1 5.8+ 60m. Climb the right-most dihedral past an easier than it looks bulge. The slab in the upper region of the corner is mildly runout. Climb across left and down to access a short steep dihedral. A bolt protects the easy face/flake climbing to the chain anchor on a small ledge. Pitch 2 5.8- 60m. Climb left or straight up on your choice of finger to hand/fist cracks for 30 ft. Trending left up grassy ramps and flakes lead into the 2 bolt face climbing of the "standard route's" 3rd pitch. Pitch 3 5.8 30m. Climb up past 3 bolts and sparse gear on blocky dirty terrain to top chains below the clump of trees....or traverse right 180ft, climb short easy fist crack corner, and follow ramps/ledges 180ft back to top clump of trees.
Location
Right-most dihedral. A large triangular overhang is 30 ft above the 1st pitch anchor.
Protection
double set of cams to 2.5inches, set of nuts.
bolt/chain anchors, double 60m ropes to rappel.
Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
- 11The Harem Route5.8+Alpine · Trad