- Edit (TBD)
Description
A great seam with perfect finger and hand pods. Likely the crux is encountered on the bolted slab leading to the crack....although the gear in the pods where you want your hands and feet makes for awkward progress. Top Roping (utilizing 2 ropes) from the alpine dance lessons anchor is certainly worth some grins!
Location
This is an obvious seam/crack directly below the anchor for alpine dance lessons.
Protection
Clip the first 10-12 bolts on Sweeney's Edge and continue straight up the seam with perfect gear pods every body length. The pods will eat medium to large nuts and/or finger to hand size cams. Small gear options exist but aren't necessary. A 60meter rope is mandatory...the first rappel is a full 100ft to the sweeney's edge first pitch (mid-way) anchor, and another shorter rappel to the starting ledge.
Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
- 9Crack-n-up5.10Alpine · Trad