- Edit (TBD)
Description
A sport climbers dream (if they like slab!). Follow the bolts to the top. Fun 5.10 bolted slab leads to a great arete. The crux on the slab after the midway arete belay ledge slips up most. The final 60meter pitch might be best broken into 2- 30meter pitches.
Location
Bolted slab to the right of "the standard route" leads to the same 1st pitch belay ledge as "the standard route". The outside corner/slab namesake crosses the Harem Route continuing past a bulge to another chain anchor. Moderate (5.8ish) slab with a minor overlap move leads to a chain midway anchor next to the standard route, and follows a dirty (close bolts) awkward ramp up and right to sneak thru the roofs. Classic featured granite for the final few bolts to the top.
Protection
11 draws minimum; 20 draws will be better. A single 60m rope will get you down with 6 rappels.
Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
- 8Sweeney's Edge5.10+Sport · Alpine