- Edit (TBD)
Description
If only the two crux sequences were longer. Pumpy lower crux and thoughtful tricky top crux.
Top crux can be done on its own by starting from the top boulder of the route Right Scramble -- traverse right onto face.
Find the steep gully just right of the bottom of the non-steep diagonal which is the base of the upper part of sector 6 Franosch -- and just left of the Left Chimney route (1 bolt) in lower part of sector 8.
Up the dirt to reach bottom of rock. Head for dead tree to right under steep overhang. Right-ward over tree, then diagonal left up through overhang.
Next roughly straight up the slab about 6 ft left of the bolts for ??
. . . (Easier if go more left closer to the gully, but does not offer perceptual warmup for top crux).
Aim for small shallow broken dihedral in top steep section. But then move Left from that to join the left edge Arete where it curves left and becomes a bit less than vertical.
. . . (? Variation : project 5.11? Finish up the shallow broken dihedral).
Crux is getting over to, then established over the edge of the arete.
Finish directly up it to reach the summit of the Silverhorn.
Top-Roping
: Obvious top anchor (shared with the route "Right Scramble") is on the SouthEast side of the summit of the Silverhorn peaklet (obvious knob above right from this sector) -- two bolts connected by chain with ramshorn lower-off. The Silverhorn peaklet can be reached from the top of the upper main wall of this sector by hiking north across slope to the overhang on the south side of the summit, then hike up left, then step right around to its west side, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top. Notice two facultative bolts on SW side of summit knob, which could be used for security to reach the top anchor for this route, which is across on the SE side. Or if this scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier.
. . . (Or the SIlverhorn summit could also be reached by leading certain routes in sector 8 Moynier.
warning
: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
Photo to be added.
Protection
Top-Rope anchor is two bolts connected by chain, with ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off.
. . . (details see the route "Right Scamble").
No fixed hardware installed for intermediate lead protection as of 2019.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Routes in 6-Franosch
- 16Urnas' Edge5.10cTr