- Edit (TBD)
Description
Lots of interesting scrambling in the upper pitch, also some (easier) in lower pitch.
Top-Roping? Perhaps either pitch
could
be top-roped, but likely works better for someone to Lead it, then have others follow.
The bottom of the lower pitch starts way below most of this sector -- below even sector 5 -- or any rock faces.
Even the upper pitch is mostly way below the main upper wall of this sector -- at the level of the base of sector 5.
pitch 1
: Get to the bottom by going up left from base of sector 7 on herd path to below wide gully full of loose rocks. Start up the short slab just Left past the bottom of the loose gully. Up the right-side ridge. After passing left of big pine tree, reach rather wide ledge. Across this to right side of short slab. Up onto the right side of its top, then step down to just above twin pine trees, and reach the bottom of the route Central Gully of sector 5 - (could belay using tree as anchor).
Variation P1 finish (harder like 5.5 or at least 5.4): Instead stay left and climb directly up next slab to belay using big tree above left as anchor).
between pitches: From the bottom of the Central Gully in sector 5 walk up gentle right 25 ft to reach pine tree with very thick trunk.
. . . (Start of pitch 2 could also be reached by climbing a route on Trail Slab of sector 7, then hike horizontal Left).
pitch 2
: Straight up rock face behind big tree. When reach steep obstruction, aim (left-ward) for giant gnarly bush. Next pass through under right side of that bush. Emerge into gentle grass. Next aim for high rock gully with non-large tree at top left -- up some rock to reach left-tranding diagonal ramp which is base of main upper wall of sector 6. Diagonal up left to top of (narrowing) ramp.
. . . Variation finish: Instead cross the ramp and up short face to pine bush (which is the route "Far Left Tree Plus").
From top of diagonal ramp, continue left above for a few feet, then sharp right into careful traverse onto gentle ground above left fron top of upper main wall.
Recommended continuation: Hike horizontal Right about 50-75 ft to reach overhanging south face of the Silverhorn knob. Turn Left to join the finish of the route "Right Scramble" and get up west side (or north ridge) of Silverhorn summit knob.
Descent
: Can down-climb the upper part of this route, or rappel from the top anchor for the route "Left Face". Reaching this anchor requires down-climbing 3rd class with exposure. There are two facultative bolts which could be used to help protect this down-climb. One is just three feet horizontal climber's left from the anchor, the other is 15-20 feet above climber's left from the anchor on the side of a small rock ridge.
. . . (Another option is to hike/bushwhack West to the main hiking trail, then walk easily North down that (likely with a shortcut scramble down to the highway by the NW corner of Silver Lake then a short walk N along the road to finish at the snack bar).
warning
: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
Photo to be added.
Protection
No fixed hardware installed for anchor or intermediate lead protection as of 2019.
Protection for trad leading is unknown, but some possibilities.
For now calling it PG-13 until get a report on how Trad protection works out.
For ideas about how to set up Top-Roping, see the Area page for this sector.
Routes in 6-Franosch
- 1Left Scramble4thTrad