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Peak Mountain 3

Left alongside Right Gully

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lots of fun moves.

Start at the bottom of the left-trending diagonal ramp, which is the base of the right ridge. Get established on the rock on left side of ridge, then up diagonal left across the wide gully to directly below the top anchor (roughly at the 3rd bolt).

. . Variation Start -- Shorter direct underneath -- Start roughly directly below the top anchor for this route -- just right of broken crack at L side of wide loose gully (which is just left of the Right Ridge). Up to rejoin main route at 3rd bolt.

Up along left side of wide gully (perhaps with some weaving) to two-bolt anchor which is below right from bush above top of cliff, below right from top anchor for the route "Central Right Face", and horizontal left from top anchor for the route "Right Ridge".

Clip a quickdraw to the bolt just below the top anchor to keep the difficulty at 5.3, done free it's more like 5.5 or at least 5.4.

. . . Variation Finish -- High Left (more difficult): Skip the anchor and instead go up left to the top anchor for the route "Central Right Face".

top-roping

: Could use one or both of the top bolts as a directional for top-roping from the two-bolts-with-chain-and-ramshorn anchor for the route "Central Right Face". Or add sling or cord to the two bolts near the top of this route.

There is a facultative bolt above left from the anchor which can be used for moving either direction between the anchor for this route and the anchor for the route "Central Right Face".

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Photo to be added.

Protection

6 bolts for intermediate Lead protection on main route.

If do the Shorter direct underneath Start variation, that subtracts 2 intermediate bolts.

If do the High Left Finish variation, that adds 1 intermediate bolts.

Top anchor is two bolts connected by 1-link chain with quick-links, but no rappel or lower-off fixture (as of 2019).

. . Bolt studs are 80mm x 10mm wedge expansion bolts 316 Stainless steel.

. . . . Hangers with traditional flat stock are 304 Stainless steel.

. . . . Hangers with round stock are 316 Stainess steel.

. . . . Hangers for most intermediate Lead bolts are traditional flat stock.

. . . . Hangers for lowest intermediate Lead bolt, and Facultative bolt above left are round stock.

. . . . Anchor: Upper hanger is traditional flat stock, lower is round stock.

. . . . Chain and quick-links are Plated steel.

. . . . All installed 2019.

For ideas about how to set up Top-Roping, see the Area page for this sector.