- Edit (TBD)
Description
Primal Cinema links the first pitch of
Strange Cargo
to the final pitch of
Autumn
. The entire climb is either three or four pitches long depending on your choice of belays. It's worth considering if you've already climbed
Strange Cargo
,
Autumn
,
Divination
, and
Zentropa
and want to do another moderate sport route on Lost Angel. 1 star for the independent pitches; 3 stars for the entire route.
P1. Climb the first pitch of
Strange Cargo
.
P2. From the belay, climb a slab on the right and then move back left into a large, right-facing corner. The first bolt is 15' or so above the belay and difficult to spot from below. After a few .10a moves in the corner, diagonal up right following a series of weaknesses in the steep wall and belay on a narrow ledge. The rock on this pitch is friable and loose in places. Be careful.
P3. Pull over a .10b bulge just left of the belay ledge, and then climb up and right to the rounded arete on the third pitch of
Autumn
.
P4. Either continue up
Autumn
or, to minimize rope-drag on its insecure finishing moves, down-climb roughly 15'-20' to the belay anchors before beginning
Autumn's
third pitch. (Rossiter's guidebooks suggest a pendulum to reach the
Autumn
belay. I thought the slabby downclimbing was reasonable. Your second can protect it by leaving the rope clipped into the second bolt on the arete before descending.)
Protection
Up to 12 QDs.
Routes in Lost Angel
- 11Primal Cinema5.11aSport