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Peak Mountain 3

Hunky Monkey

FA Dan Hare and Tom Painter (1st pitch), 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Hunky Monkey starts out of the bank of the creek in the right-facing dihedral right of the first pitch of

Autumn

and just left of the first pitch of

Divination

(more specifically just left of the direct start to

Divination

).

P1: climb a right-facing dihedral to ledge (.10d, 12 bolts - ~ 90').

P2: go straight off of belay up into short, right-facing dihedral to large, left-sloping ledge (.10d, ~6 bolts - ~ 50').

P3: continute up the large, left-sloping ledge to black-streaked bolted headwall, climb intricately up the headwall to hands/fingers crack, go over the headwall into a scoop, and make delicate face moves above to anchor on the prow (.11b/c, 9 bolts - ~ 90').

P4: strike out along a prow to left-facing dihedral and onto steep headwall above (.10d/.11a, 6 bolts - ~60').

A 70m rope is questionable for a rap. It is better to bring 2 ropes or walkoff.

Presently, it needs further cleaning on upper pitches. After some usage, this will be a Dream Canyon classic.

Protection

Well bolted - 15 draws more than sufficient. You can place a #1 Tech Friend between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the first pitch to protect the easy move to the 3rd. Ring bolt anchors, rap possible at each station.


Routes in Lost Angel


  1. 14
    Hunky Monkey
    5.11b
    Sport