China Doll

China Doll IV 5.9 A3+ (nearly C3+)

The exact details of the FA are unknown to me, but I believe this line is as described below based upon the fixed equipment on the route and the information from Rossiter's Dream Canyon/Boulder Canyon guide. This is an obscure but compelling aid line up the middle of Lost Angel. It follows the prominent, right-arching dihedral. Apparently attempts have been made to free some, if not all, of this route. Bring at least a gallon of water if done in the summer. It comes into the sun about 1pm.

Likely this route will go clean.

We were only 2 pins away.

IF YOU DON'T WANT BETA, PLEASE READ NO FURTHER. Otherwise, here's the poop:

P1. There are probably at least 3 possible starts for the first pitch. You can follow the most direct line up the first pitch of Earth Voyage past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This requires a brief bit of 5.9 climbing to the 1st bolt, then a cam or two and a hook move about mid pitch, and high-stepping the bolts to reach a small ledge. Alternatively, you can do a bit of free climbing with the 1st pitch of Archangel 5.9 past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor just R of Earth Voyage's 1st anchor. Finally, a line of more traditional features lies between these starts and can finish on either anchor,

C2

. 50 feet.

P2. This pitch can be combined with P1. Start up the prominent R-facing dihedral reminiscent of Yosemite. Use a tenuous hook move early and then small cams to .33 Alien, Lowe balls, fixed bashies, a fixed pin, modern bolts, stoppers/RP to gain the modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with ring plus old 1/4" bolt anchor at a semi-hanging belay. This is a pretty pitch,.

C2+,

50 feet. There is a possible cam hook placement attempted that blew about 1/3 the way up this pitch.

P3. This pitch continues up the same dihedral sans modern bolts. The crack in the dihedral widens a bit. We used a #3 and #4 Camalot to start; however, a wider cam (#4.5) might fill the crack tighter. Then smaller to mid size cams, Lowe ball(s), a bashie, a hook move around an awkward bit leads you to where Rock Odyssey crosses the route out a roof. Here we used a knifeblade just before the buttonhead and Star-driven 1/4" bolt with single-biner-hole-Leeper hanger semi-hanging belay, A2+,

nearly C2+

, 80 feet.

P4. This is where the route gets significantly more funky and feels like a traverse. The roof overhangs the dihedral significantly here and keeps the rock from getting cleaned. The slab below the dihedral sheds exfoliative flakes. The rock in the corner has a much wilder feel to it. High-step up off the belay (gotta trust those tiny bits of metal) to a #0.5 Camalot placement, then sigh a bit at a medium wire placement. At that point, there is a flare that blew a #1 Friend placement and prompted us to utilize a LA in crumbly rock. Aid masters may find obvious clean placements that escaped us. Then, utilize the roof crack with a #1 Camalot and then a smaller cam. Then tie off the fixed partially driven LA. Hook here to gain small cam placements. Then move right with 3 cams on top of a large rounded flake. Here, excavation of 4 hook placements yielded tenuous edges at the crux here. It may be possible to free climb here for those desiring the switch. A few more cam placements bring you to a cramped, pigeon-like belay with 2 good #3 Camalot placements. Wires and other cams may reinforce this belay, A3+ (

nearly C3+

), 70 feet.

P5. You see the exit here just before the guano! The dihedral here traverses to a roof crack. Use cams, a possible red tricam, wires, and a fixed Leeper Z pin to gain the lip. A 0.5 Camalot placement just past the roof gives you a view of the modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with rings 9 feet past the lip. This is an awkward semi-hanging belay stance. You can rappel to a modern, Fixe, 2-bolt anchor with ring anchor (2nd belay of Rock Odyssey) and rappel again to the ground,

C2+

, 60 feet.

P6. An optional pitch from here goes up moderate free ground to the top.

All in all, this takes a longer day than you would guess from below. Cleaning P4 and P5 is taxing.

Double small cams down to 0.33 Alien, triple middle size cams to #2 Camalot, double #3 Camalots, 1- #4 Camalot, 1 set of wires, a few Lowe-balls, a few bigger RPs, 1 LA, 1 knifeblade, 1 48"+ sling to lower out, 2 tie-off slings, hooks, possible tricams (red & black), perhaps some offset wires. 2 ropes useful to rappel off.