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Peak Mountain 3

Outta This World

FA Chris Weidner, June 18, 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This variation links the upper corner of

Jungle Blues From Jupiter

into the dihedral (and crux) of

Spiders From Mars

via a wild roof crack traverse (11d). The 12a rating comes from

The Vaino Step

start, which I thought would provide the least amount of rope drag, plus it's the hardest of three logical starts (

The Host

,

The Vaino Step

,

Jungle Blues...

). The other two starts yield an exciting 11d.

Stick clip the first bolt, pull a hard boulder problem, then clip two more bolts (skip the second one that's too far left) with long slings before merging with

JBFJ

. Decipher the perplexing traverse that leads straight into the crux of

SFM

.

Finish as per

Spiders From Mars

: top out the thin corner, step left to an easy corner (crippling drag unless you're careful) for about 20 feet, and move back right to a two-bolt anchor.

Protection

It is well-protected throughout.

1 each: #0 Metolius - #3 Camalot, a few medium nuts.

2 each: #0.4 Camalot - #0.75 Camalot.

5 draws, 8 long slings including two double-length.


Routes in Lost Angel


  1. 48
    Outta This World
    5.12a
    Trad