- Edit (TBD)
Description
This variation links the upper corner of
Jungle Blues From Jupiter
into the dihedral (and crux) of
Spiders From Mars
via a wild roof crack traverse (11d). The 12a rating comes from
The Vaino Step
start, which I thought would provide the least amount of rope drag, plus it's the hardest of three logical starts (
The Host
,
The Vaino Step
,
Jungle Blues...
). The other two starts yield an exciting 11d.
Stick clip the first bolt, pull a hard boulder problem, then clip two more bolts (skip the second one that's too far left) with long slings before merging with
JBFJ
. Decipher the perplexing traverse that leads straight into the crux of
SFM
.
Finish as per
Spiders From Mars
: top out the thin corner, step left to an easy corner (crippling drag unless you're careful) for about 20 feet, and move back right to a two-bolt anchor.
Protection
It is well-protected throughout.
1 each: #0 Metolius - #3 Camalot, a few medium nuts.
2 each: #0.4 Camalot - #0.75 Camalot.
5 draws, 8 long slings including two double-length.
Routes in Lost Angel
- 48Outta This World5.12aTrad