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Peak Mountain 3

Steelhead

FA Jeff Wenger, Jamie Wenger, 2/08
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UPDATED 

Description

If technical, delicate stemming is your bag, then this route's for you. A slight notch harder than Space Mission, Steelhead features a similar somewhat baffling stemming crux down low followed by sustained, but easier climbing above.

This route (like Space Mission) isn't ideal for top-roping as a climber falling off the low crux that's not getting power-belayed is likely to tickle the ground. Conversely, on lead, there is ample gear and the bottom could be easily french freed if you were unable to work out the moves. That being said, you have to know how to properly place small (tiny to some) gear.

Location

Locate the obvious gray scar at the base of twin cracks in between Gateway and Bushwhacker. (visible in either of those routes' photos)

Protection

Lots of thin cams. I used RPs, a red Ballnut, triples of green and red C3s, doubles up to 0.5 C4s and 1 0.75. This route takes stoppers better than most of the lines at Trout and the gear through the crux is plentiful and bomber.


Routes in The Main Wall


  1. 3
    Steelhead
    5.11
    Trad