Pumphouse Park

This route should get way more traffic than it does. Overall the movement is easier than hardest moves on Alchemy, but it's a bit more sustained. Regardless this thing is a classic at a grade that there aren't enough of around here. Get on it!

Start up Fingerlings and follow it to the jug/rest on the right. At the jug, hand traverse right and battle up an intricate combination of stemming and lie-backing. Get back what you can below the roof before pulling a wild sequence on hidden holds to turn the lip.  

It's easy to set up a TR for the low crux from Fingerlings or to climb up Fingerlings into the top of the route. (mid 5.11) Additionally, the 5.11 climbing through the roof sequence is easily avoided to the left on somewhat hollow 5.9 terrain. (but the roof is really, really fun, so you shouldn't skip it)

Start as for Fingerlings.

Gear to 1.5", Mostly tips. Small wires are useful.