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MapDescription
This route is super-neglected. The crux is mostly cranking hard on fingerlocks, so go get it! Climb splitter fingers and thin hands to a rest. From here figure out the funky sequence to gain a section of Wartley's Revenge-esque jugs. Finish by firing delicate and technical climbing up the crux finger and tips crack.
Location
This is pretty much the furthest right route on the Main Wall. There are others further, but they are of a very different character and not as classic. Hike past Time Bomb and locate the splitter crack surrounded by tiny seams. Scramble up and right to access the spacious belay ledge.
Protection
A double rack from BD. 0.75 to green C3 plus a 1 and 2 should be more than adequate to stitch this thing up.
Routes in The Main Wall
- 73Out Ridin' Fences5.11+Trad