Community Pillars

This is a trad climb in the truest sense of the word.  Established ground up without any inspection, it fully delivered on the adventure front.  This isn't a particularly safe or sanitized route.  There are suspect hollow blocks up high that need to be navigated with care and the pro for the first 50' is pretty marginal.

After scampering up to the ledge at the base, build a small nest of thin pro before casting off on relatively mellow, albeit heady stemming and liebacking.  In the first 50' the the biggest piece of gear I found was a sole green c3.  If I'd had two more red ballnuts, (I brought 2) I would've happily placed them.  The climbing is somewhat interesting, but what makes the line fun is the feature: stemming off the shallow offset on the right and the Time Bomb pillar on the left is wild!  In the middle I chickened out and at a small foothold in the left crack, opted to crawl into the chimney to relax and get some real gear.  I climbed up it for another 10-20' before hand traversing back out at the base of the hanging flake.  It's probably possible to stay straight and avoid the chimney with a bit more boldness. (this might also bump the grade up) The finish up the final headwall is the most compelling part of the route.  Truly hero climbing up a beautiful headwall with horizontals and gas pockets. (and a decent amount of lichen)  Build an anchor on top out of hand size cams and walk south to get back to the base.

Immediately right of the Time Bomb pillar.  Start behind the stubby leaning column and stem up to the flat ledge at the base.

Lots of tiny pro including as many red ballnuts as you can beg, borrow, and steal. Despite how it looks from below, the crack doesn't really ever get bigger than a green c3 until the hanging flake.  Larger cams for the top.