Mainline Express

This is a neat route with challenging cruxes that I feel needed to be cleared up. While it was given 5.11+ my partner and I disagree and find it to be on par or harder than other LGR 12s.

Pitch 1 climb up the grey slab to where the wall steepens and begins to overhang. Begin to route find through the bulges aiming for the big jug ear. After that one more tricky section puts you on a great belay ledge where you’ll build an anchor 5.11

Pitch 2 Climb right off the belay and into a boulder problem with a bolt. Continue up the overhanging face to the left with another tricky crux. After this climb up and make a gear belay at a sloping stance 5.12

Pitch 3 Climb up shallow crack into the groove bouncing around and finding pro with short runs. Locate the double bolt belay under the overhanging bulge 5.10

Pitch 4 Sneak up to the overhang and make sure to take time getting bomber pro as this boulder problem is much harder than it appears as well as its “given” grade. Crank over the bulge with the crack on slopers and head up to the tree line. Build belay off left and up of tree island if you want a bonus pitch. This pitch was listed as 11b in guidebooks. On rappel we determined you could probably climb the right side of the roof at an easier grade but going straight up from the belay through the roof is solid. I felt it was harder than the actual crux pitch. 5.11+

Pitch 5 this wasn’t an original pitch but it made sense to keep climbing.... climb up to eyebrows on the right and crank through the face on poor holds with pro well below you or continue right and you can traverse around and over this section. Climb up the water groove above. 5.11

2 raps off trees back to the bolted anchor. From bolted anchor rap “to the ground”. Chances are if you made it up the route you’ve got it together but two 60s will not put you in walking territory. Down climb 20’ of slab to the apron.

This route starts off the big grey slab to the left of Labia under the arching alcove. There is a large dark chossy looking hole to the left of ME. Blocky features and flakes define the start and you can look up and see a lone bolt for the second pitch on the overhanging grey face above.

Double rack 00-2 and I think I used one 3” piece a couple times...