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Peak Mountain 3

Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man

FA Jeff Burton, Lyle Dean, Mark Stroud, Bill Tennent
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 climb the immaculate corner with a thin crack in the back. Small ball nuts, RPs, micro brass, and cam hooks will help. Hand placed beaks could work too. Beefy bolt belay on a ledge. 100’

Pitch 2 climb the bolt ladder up and right with some hook moves in between over the first water groove to the second. Climb up groove through eyebrows utilizing aid and free climbing. Eventually you will gain a large slot for .75-1” units. Above this by a few feet is a #3 placement. Drop back down and build belay in the 1” slot 120’

Pitch 3 leave the hooks and extra cams at the belay and free climb directly up the groove to a huge ledge with some trees and belay 180’

Pitch 4 class out the ramp system and scramble to the top. 200’

In both guide books that cover this route it is described to exit out right of the second groove onto the face of pitch 2 and staying right for the remainder of the route. I did not do this as the groove looked like it would provide more pro and better climbing. It’s very possible going right is easier... I would say the free climbing is still not far off from the 5.9 range. Both books also describe this pitch as A2+... just get out of your aiders a little as this is definitely not an A2+ pitch and goes very clean. It’s just good fun, old fashioned, shenanigans climbing. To descend walk along the tree line climbers right and you will find a hikers trail that goes down to the rock with a spot to hang out and currently has a bench up there. The rappels for prey are 40’ down at 12:30/1:00 from the bench. 4 double rope raps more or less straight down to the ground.

Location

This route is on the left hand side of the sunwall. Pitch 1 is a a right facing corner and as a stand alone free climb is known as The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test

Protection

Micro brass, rps, cam hooks, one bat hook, one grappling hook, triples 00-.5 will lace it up but doubles would work, doubles 1&2”, one #3