Bouffant Curl

A great old school, all gear route, with some fun climbing on a cool part of the wall. The crux is not protected well and it’s in your best interest to do it first try.

Pitch 1 climb up face to a dark (loose) right facing flake. Pass this and build an anchor at the ledge 5.10 60’

Pitch 2 head left off the belay passing the more flakes to a great horizontal rail. Build anchor under steep groove 5.9 90’

Pitch 3 I broke this pitch into two pitches like a wuss for communication with the wind... you can too. Head up the alarmingly steep groove onto easier slab. (Optional belay). Then tackle the steep bulge above. After the Boulder problem head up groove then trend left to build a belay in the next groove to the left. The right groove is bouffant direct and I have not climbed it. 5.10+ 160’

Pitch 4 climb straight off the belay up the super fun groove and belay at tree ledge. 190’ 5.10

Pitch 5 two ways that this can be done the first being a 200’ traverse from the bottom of the tree ledge straight left to anchors on Prey. Or you can climb up and left and find the upper anchors of Prey below the hangout on top with the small wooden bench.

Rappel prey in 3 (if traversing in) or 4 (if topping out and coming down) double rope lengths.

This route is located roughly 100 yards from the raven roost where the apron has a small gathering of trees that come up higher to the right of the route. Reference pitch 2 picture to orient yourself

Doubles from 00-3