Lucky Time Piece (submitted as Primate Highway)

Start the same as

Simians to the Sun

, but about halfway up bust right at the roof and then go up to the belay of

Simians

. This has been said to be a little runout.

Per

David Kozak

: this route was originally climbed without fixed gear in 1985, two years prior to Bruce Lella bolting the route. On the day of the ascent, I originally attempted to climb this line on lead but chickened out and moved further right and up to a spot where I tried to place a bolt. I broke the bit (only one I had) and then tied it off and moved left along a rail to the

Simian's

hanging belay. Steve Kolarik and I called this Teen Town and rated it 10- X. We then rapped, and I cleaned and inspected the route (Primate Highway/Lucky Time Piece) and then lead it ground up without pre-placed gear. Due to its difficulty and dangerous nature, I rated the route an 11+ X.

East Animas rack and draws.