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Peak Mountain 3

Imp's Arete

FA I. Alman & E. Poss
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route follows the upper north-facing arete of the Watch Crystal face. Approximately 80 feet of fairly moderate climbing from the top belay ledge of

Evolution

(or the hanging belay anchor of

Crime and Punishment

) brings you to the top of the wall. It can be done either as an extension of

Crime and Punishment

or in an 80-foot pitch from the

Evolution

/

Crime

anchors. The first ascent party linked the Imps Arete with Crime and Punishment in one long pitch to the top of the face. If you do it this way, it's best to belay at the first belay ledge 35 feet off the ground above the technical 5.11- crux of

Crime and Punishment

.

This route offers some worthy exposure and stays on the arete to the top. Most of the climbing is cruiser, but there are two 5.9 sections protected by bolts. You will need a few pieces of gear ranging in size from 0.4 to 0.75 Camalot.

Location

This second pitch begins at the midpoint anchors of

Evolution

and

Crime and Punishment

and climbs out onto the main arete of the Watchcrystal face.

Protection

8 bolts and 0.4 through 0.75 Camalots. Only two to three gear placements are required.