- Edit (TBD)
Description
Steve and I originally did this route without any fixed gear (the rating reflects the original state of the ascent). It was done prior to
Lucky Time Piece (aka Primate Highway)
, and so today it benefits from the bolt on the rightward traverse out of the first part of the
Simians to the Sun
crack system. In other words, it heads toward
Kong
. I broke the drill bit (which I tied off for pro) and then in desperation moved leftward along a rail to the
Simian's
hanging belay. It was a X lead at the time with a challenging series of moves along the rail. I named the route after the Heavy Weather (fusion jazz) song. It most likely hasn't seen a second ascent.
Location
Start on
Simian's
/Watch Crystal Crack and after about 30 or so feet head right as if going to
Kong
, then aim for the broken drill bit and, then head left to the
Simian's
hanging belay.
Protection
The runout at the traverse would currently be at least an R rated excursion.
Routes in I. Watch Crystal
- 13Teen Town5.10-Trad