Wicked West

This is a stellar route on clean rock, without those sections of choss or easy/dirty gully which plague other routes in vicinity. It is heady but well worth it

Pitch 1, 5.8, 100 ft Start along a thin crack system. At the top of it, go left, up a couple of large steps, then right past an old quarter inch bolt to a flake - a precariously thin one at the bottom but solid on top - which will take you to the right. Above that is a nice grassy ledge for a belay.

Pitch 2, 5.7, PG 13, 200 ft Go around the tree on the left (that and the agave plant right after it are the only real vegetation on the route). Continue up in the direction of a bush (which you will not reach). This will take you into a large left facing corner. We stayed in the corner only about half the time, deviating to the left along a pair of seams, then going up to the corner proper, up it a bit past a piton, finally to the left again along another seam to an arete. From there take the left face for a short stretch and step left toward the off-width (it takes #4). Go left about 10 ft under a mini-headwall, then up it. Another 30 feet or so will take you to a nice horizontal crack with a gently sloping slab below it for a comfortable belay.

Pitch 3, 5.8, 100 ft This pitch is shared with Dyslexic. Go up on the right side of the small triangular roof/boulder, traverse on it left into the prominent right facing corner and go up it the rest of the way. The crux, at a boulder-like projection into the corner, is protected with 0.1 cam, 0.2 at most and is somewhat height dependent.

Start about 30 ft left of the beginning of West Face. Walk off the top to the east to reach the standard Lambda rap line.

We had double rack for all but the most extreme of sizes. Useful sizes were all the way from 0.1 to #4. The detour from corner on Pitch 2, the most runout sections, was protected by a brown tricam is a pocket which would not take anything else. There is one quarter-inch bolt in a critical location on Pitch 1 and a piton or two on Pitch 2.