Yellow Brick Road

This climb has two worthy challenges: puzzling route-finding and variations for the first pitch, high exposure and some commiting moves up the second pitch.The R&I topo shows the first pitch starting somewhere up on the low angled scramble beneath the descent gully. It depicts 5.5 climbing traversing in from the left on ledges. More direct variations work as well, but the protection can be tricky. There are many shallow corners with tight seams that can be followed, all of them relatively low-angled, but not always easily protectable. Aim for an old 1/4" bolt (which can be backed-up) which is shared by Wizard of Ooze. While that route traverses left here, this route tends right towards an obvious break in the roof above with a large block in front of it. Belay on top, or behind this block.The second pitch takes a nice corner system up to the summit, and has some great exposure.Once on the top of the route, scramble about 20-30 feet to the right, where you'll find the rap anchors on the edge. It is right next to a living tree with an old red sling hidden on it's trunk. Two raps with 60m rope will get you to the 4th class scramble, taking you the rest of the way to the base of the climb.

Starts on the low-angle scrable beneath the descent gully. Head for the obvious break on the right side of the upper headwall. Descend as for Wizard of Ooze.

A standard rack will suffice, with an emphasis on tiny wires if you want to protect the thin seams on variations to the first pitch. A large fixed piton is passed 15 ft beneath the belay for the 2nd pitch. This could be used as an alternative belay for this route or Wizard of Ooze.