- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: The route begins on "the Wizard" pinnacle near the east side and goes through several crack systems including a set of parallel cracks. Near the top of the pinnacle, go right to avoid a steep and unprotectable corner, and end up at a bolted belay.
P2: Left of the belay and down a small gully is the start of the second pitch. The pitch goes up the right crack. It's as good as it looks! There is a bolt at the start to protect the first move. The rest of the route protects well with trad gear. This second pitch is the crux and has several long, hard moves.
P3: The crack of P2 will top out on a slab near the west ridge. Traverse the west side of Lamba wall to join up with the West Face route around P3 or P4. Continue on the West Face route to the top. There appears to be more direct options for this pitch but the cracks are wide and protection is uncertain. Let me know if anyone tries a more direct finish.
P4: Follow the West Face route
Location
This route is between Lions and Tigers and Bears and the Wizard of Ooze (I think). The start is near the east side of the Wizard pinnacle.
Protection
Nuts and double rack of cams will be plenty. Long slings are good for the traverse and West Face.
Routes in Lambda
- 11Glenda the Good Route5.10b/cTrad