- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start is the same as Barney Rubble. Stem through an awkward steep section down low. Traverse left about mid way (Barney Rubble continues straight up here in a wide crack) on some hollow flakes to the steep right facing stemming and jamming corner. Some of the rock in the middle of this climb isn't terribly confidence inspiring, which I docked a star for, but nothing is obviously loose. Continue up the steep corner. Climb through a steep hanging tooth feature on thin hands (crux) to bolts/hooks at the top. A 70 m rope works great. Not 100% sure if you can lower with a 60m. Be cautious with a 60 (like many routes at this cliff).
Lots of variety on this one.
Location
Left of Space Truckin' and Quest for Glory is a small dark corridor. There is a large flat rock near the base. Barney Rubble is the straight up wide crack. The Beak shares the same start but traverses left on some hollow flakes to a steep corner and climbs through a fairly obvious hanging tooth feature.
Protection
Standard rack from green alien/blue metolius to #3 camalot. Nothing bigger than a #3 needed. Heavy on the thin hands sizes.
Routes in Eagle Lake Cliff
- 8The Beak5.10+Trad