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Peak Mountain 3

The Beak

FA Chris McNamara, Todd Offenbacher
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start is the same as Barney Rubble. Stem through an awkward steep section down low. Traverse left about mid way (Barney Rubble continues straight up here in a wide crack) on some hollow flakes to the steep right facing stemming and jamming corner. Some of the rock in the middle of this climb isn't terribly confidence inspiring, which I docked a star for, but nothing is obviously loose. Continue up the steep corner. Climb through a steep hanging tooth feature on thin hands (crux) to bolts/hooks at the top. A 70 m rope works great. Not 100% sure if you can lower with a 60m. Be cautious with a 60 (like many routes at this cliff).

Lots of variety on this one.

Location

Left of Space Truckin' and Quest for Glory is a small dark corridor. There is a large flat rock near the base. Barney Rubble is the straight up wide crack. The Beak shares the same start but traverses left on some hollow flakes to a steep corner and climbs through a fairly obvious hanging tooth feature.

Protection

Standard rack from green alien/blue metolius to #3 camalot. Nothing bigger than a #3 needed. Heavy on the thin hands sizes.