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Description
Hard to believe this appealing looking steep hand crack wasn't climbed until the early 2000s!
This crack gets on you right away as the angle kicks back and the crack pinches down to mega thin hands before opening into a 4" or so pod that presents some difficulties. Gear can be crispy through here so take care, maybe double up in the solid crack below. Pulling through and up into the lower angle handcrack above sees the difficuly ease.
From the top of the little tower you'll see you're only halfway done with the route. Set some gear, sling it long and step off left across the face, targeting the first of a three bolt line. The slab shouldn't be a problem if you pulled the low crux, and it does take some small nuts and cams to supplement the bolts.
Location
On the corner of the block before you get up to the Crackula/Buster Brown wall. Just past that bolted chimney and the Off the Wall pinnacle.
Protection
Standard rack. 3 bolts on the route, bolted lower off anchor
Routes in Eagle Lake Cliff
- 17Flight Simulator5.11aTrad