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Peak Mountain 3

South Chasm Crack

FA Aidan Maguire (TR)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A great freak of nature caused the chasm to form without the entire cliff falling into the lake. As it did an inner crack became exposed that is mirrored on each side of the chasm. The North being the classic.

It looks like it may be possible to either stem to the other side of the chasm or to the big chockstone belay ledge, but alas, not so!

A fun TR in summer when the main face comes into the sun. The belayer sits on a giant chock stone 1/3 down the chasm (easily reached) and lowers the climber into the always cool chasm.

The south crack is harder and not as enjoyable, as clean or continuous as the north

Location

After topping out on any typical Eagle lake cliffs route walk back 50-60 feet to the large splitter chasm. The 2 chasm routes are at the east end of the chasm

Protection

No anchor means setting up a safe belay from a crack set back 10 feet from the chasm edge and using runners