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Peak Mountain 3

TS Short Squeeze

FA TR Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Decent climbing at that difficulty grade, but short -- with no distinguishing feature to make up for that. Another climb to do from the mid-way anchor for TS Left Corner.

directions: Start a few feet right of right-facing inside corner. Roughly straight up, passing just right of obvious bulge 10 ft up. Next continue up, staying right of the narrow dirty gully. About 8 ft lower than the two-bolt anchor to the left side, step over left, then up to that anchor.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

A few feet right of right-facing inside corner which forms the left boundary of the Trail Slab part of sector Lewis.

See C on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-chain.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

No intermedate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.